Day 16 Vila do Conde to Barcelos 29km

It was a really hard day on the road. It rained from when we started at 7.30am and the rain got more intense for the next few hours, not finishing until after 11am. We got absolutely soaked. Our problems were exacerbated by taking the wrong route - we had to take an unwaymarked route to get back to the main Camino route, and none of us found the Brierly directions for the 'grey' route to be clear. With the afternoon sun, we dried out and are now in our room in Residencial Arantes in Barcelos - it overlooks the main square where the locals are having a Sunday afternoon waltz!

Dancing in the square, Barcelos

A few things about last night. The room we had was a bit Fawlty Towers ish. The lights had a habit of going on and off for periods, mostly off. The cistern in the loo had an attack of constant noisy draining - plumber Mary managed a fix with loo brush so that we could all sleep for the night. Down in the town we called into a wonderful local bar/cafe for a nightcap, Cafe Saura. It was very non touristy and the food was interesting (we had already eaten), and the atmosphere great. This morning we called back in for breakfast before leaving town. Some of last night customers were still there working their way through white wine - they were really drunk but no trouble. Our breakfast was perfect.

Tiny chapel at Vila do Conde (seats about 16)

Aqueduct at Vila do Conde

I have mentioned a few times how much we have taken to Portugal and the Portuguese. As we have proceeded a couple of exceptions have emerged. When you are on a narrow margin at the edge of a main road you get a good look at the driver as he speeds past you - and so many of them are holding mobile phones to their ears. Ireland is poor in this regard also but I thought Portugal might be better. Another thing we notice is that the people here are serial 'litterers', just dropping rubbish/paper as they walk, and you can see the results. It is a bit like Ireland was 10/15 years ago.

Damp ponies this morning

Tomorrow's official stage is about 34km, so we are splitting it in two as we are carrying a spare day at this stage.