Final Thoughts .........

So, it was a wonderful month. We have remembrances of early morning, smells of the countryside, wild fennel, figs and grapes. There were the tranquil, empty villages, and the kindness of strangers. There were places: Lisbon, Porto, Santarem, Pontevedra, Casa de Fernanda (with the wild Portuguese songs), Coimbra and the wonderful walk up the coast immediately north of Porto.

The Brierly guide, warts and all, was essential. While the Magwood blog, Trepeditious Traveller, was wonderfully practical and informative.

Finished - next to the Cathedral

There were some things that were a challenge. South of Porto, so many dogs seemed to be out of control - the three of us and our walking poles kept them away, not sure how this worked for some of the lone travellers - no problems after Porto. You have to have a supply of clean water with you because the font supply is unreliable as to cleanliness. It is much more hilly than we were led to believe. The first eight stages are essentially 30km or more and it is impossible to shorten them as there are so few interim towns with suitable accommodation. Nobody can measure on this Camino - when the notice says 'Cafe 100 Metres To The Right', you need to double it, and then add on a bit more!!

Queuing for our Campostela certificates

In Santiago we met our German friends Carlo and Waltraud - they have been very special to us since Porto. One person, prominent from the pre Porto stages, was Alan from Greystones - we have not met him yet in Santiago but expect to see him on our plane tomorrow.

There were lots of people we met on the way whose name we didn't know. We quickly gave them nicknames and these included: Alitalia, Desperate Dorothy, Bulgarian Bob and The Golden Girls ( a group of three Spanish women all over 70 who made speedy progress).

The Botafumeiro

And finally. We have encountered many people in Santiago whom we knew, or half knew, from the Camino Portuguese. One of those whom we got to know really well was Stephen, the chef from Derry, and we bumped into him again (after two weeks) at the Cathedral mass. It was really great to meet him. He related two stories to us. The first was about the very wet day two weeks ago. He was walking with three others and they were completely soaked through. They came upon a posh-ish restaurant in the middle of nowhere and were desperate for some kind of nourishment. They were dripping so much they asked if they could have something outside on the porch, but management insisted that they came inside. They did, and had a beer and the cheapest food on a very expensive menu. The bill for the four was still heading for €80, but when they went to pay, the manager informed them that it was on the house. Very impressive!

The second story was that he had walked for the past few days with a Cork couple (Ger and Mary we think). In conversation with them it transpired that they were following this blog and he was able to tell them a little about us. So, Ger and Mary, if you're still following the blog, Buen Camino!!

We fly home tomorrow. I thought I was finished with Caminos, but Mary has just mentioned Camino del Norte that goes through Irun, Bilbao, Santander .....................

Buen Camino

Day 25 Santa Maria de Adina to Santiago 22km

Well, we've done it. It was a 615 km walk, or more according to some. We are tired but happy and now have almost two days in Santiago to relax.

Getting very close!

The walk today went well, and knowing that it was the last such day made it easier. We were on the road by 8.15am and the route took us along narrow country roads and farm tracks. Also, the long drag into Santiago that we had experienced on the Camino Frances was not evident this time and we were in the centre before we knew it. Already we have met a number of people we haven't seen for days and even weeks. We expect more of this tomorrow.

Arrived!

We are trying to pinpoint a mass in the cathedral when the botafumeiro will happen. We have seen this before but want to see it again. A number of men swing a large thurible type of device, full of burning incense, the length of the cathedral. It is a very dramatic event that lasts for about five minutes.

Iffy outside but great inside!

We gained access to our Airbnb apartment (after a bit of a delay) and it is really well appointed. So it's a quiet night in, recharge the batteries, and see the town tomorrow.

We'll put a few thoughts together and put them into a final blog tomorrow.

Day 24 Caldas de Reis to Santa Maria de Adina 21km

We had a very nice event today on our walk. An hour or so into it we came upon a school with a lot of welcomes in different languages pasted to the window nearest to our trail. As we looked at it, a teacher popped his head out of the window, established that we were from Ireland, said that he had lived in Redford Park in Greystones for a year, and invited us in to meet the class. We went in to find that the school has embraced the Camino, and has collected memorabilia and established connections around the world because of it. We met the most gorgeous young children and were photographed with them. We promised to post the photograph in our blog this evening - see below. It was a wonderful experience!

With our new school friends

We were on the road this morning late ish - 8.45, but we made really good time. Our time for the past few days has increased considerably. Fleur has an app and until recently we were progressing at 4kmph. However, now it shows that we are moving at 5kmph. I think it is a combination of flatter terrain and our increasing fitness.

Black pig

We got to Padron at around 14.00. This is the stage finish, but it would leave us with 25km tomorrow if we had stopped there, and that would mean a 7am start (in the dark) in the morning to make it to Santiago for an Airbnb key collection at 4pm. So we have proceeded to the Hotel Scala about 3km beyond Padron. It is a nice hotel, even if the WIFI is a bit iffy while they transition to a new system.

Feeding a sugar addict

Mary reminded me today of the concept of "Camino brain". This is where all the different days, places, albergues, hotels, cafes, pilgrims, etc. overwhelm your brain and it is impossible to recall anything without a lot of thought and prompts from your fellow walkers. Well, at this stage I have Camino brain.

This morning - typical of the trail we've encountered the past few days

Tomorrow is our last day walking. It is a second visit to Santiago for two of us and we can't wait!!

Day 23 Pontevedra to Caldas da Reis 23km

Outdoor chess in a square in Pontevedra

Great night last night. We had met a girl from Colorado on the trail yesterday who told us that she was spending an extra night in Pontevedra, and we wondered why. Well, we got our answer when we went into the centre yesterday evening. What a place - wonderful medieval narrow streets, square after square after square, and unusual churches. Also the squares were full of families having a quiet drink or dining. Mary treated us to a more upmarket restaurant (Loaira, no 3 of 222 places to eat in Pontevedra, according to Tripadvisor) and it was really good - see photo.

The further north we go, since leaving Porto, we have noticed that prices have gradually risen. Our cafe stops that gave change out of a €5 note, now give change out of a €10 note. The hotels we use on and off that were costing €45 for a triple room, are now €60+.

Baa, near San Amaro

Went through wonderful countryside today. There were lots of signs of the wine harvest (see photo) taking place in this area. We were on the road and breakfasted by 8.30am, and in Caldas de Reis by 14.00. We have a chalet in the grounds of the Acuna Hotel, and it is nice.

Bringing in the grapes - near Barro

Part of our timing of this trip was designed for us to get back to Ireland when the Rugby World Cup got serious, ie. we would miss nothing of importance. So, we were knocked back when we saw the Japan/South Africa result yesterday evening. Wow!!!

On the road today

Only two more days, and forty or so kilometres!!

Day 22 Redondela to Pontevedra 19km

Avocados at Redondela

Another big surge of people on the trail today - all of them new to us. With the exception of one busy road, we walked quiet country roads and forest tracks. We enjoyed it, particularly as the distance was so much shorter than yesterday. We are now settled in the Aloxa Albergue, a clean, modern facility. It is a little bit out of town, but we have plenty of time to walk in later.

On the left Tarta de Santiago, in the middle a typically large Spanish brandy

There were a couple of things about yesterday's walk. You'll remember that the new route took us west of Porrino. In doing so it was a little longer - we didn't mind that so much but it was the absence of any cafe for a break and walking fuel that was the real problem. It was a 16km stretch. When we arrived in Porrino we quickly found a cafe and got talking to a couple we had seen on the trail. They were Portuguese, but she had particularly good English - it transpired that they both live in Dublin - small world.

Near Bertola - a loo that is not for the shy!

(Also, there was a trampoline next to the washbasin!!)

The rain is long gone at this stage and today seems to be in the low to mid 20s. However, there has been an overall change in that it is noticeably colder both in the early morning and the evening. Our big hope is that it will stay dry.

Bridge at Arcade 

Day 21 Tui to Redondela 32km

Today was our last 30km+ walk and we won't miss them. We were on the road at 7am - in Portugal that would have been bright but we lost an hour in crossing the border into Spain. So, we had to find our way by torchlight for the first hour. We arrived at Redondela at 16.15, so it was a long day. We are staying at the Camino Albergue and it is fine.

93km from Santiago 

Even before starting this trip, we had concerns about this stage. Various blogs had alerted us to problems with the route around Perrino. As I understand it, the route previously went through the industrial area south of the town. As this was both dangerous for the pilgrims and unattractive, a new route was selected to the west of the old one, bypassing the industrial area. Vested interests on the old route then started to sabotage the waymarking on the new route, and added their own yellow arrows to direct clientele back to the old route. The result is a mess for the pilgrims. Our Albergue of last night had a series of photographs of the tampered junctions, with an indication of which way to go, so Fleur photographed them and they got us through. Without the photos, there were a number of areas where we could have gone wrong.

Machine that Mary has taken a fancy to

Today we passed the psychological 100km to go mark. We have only four days to go and two of them are of 18km. I have picked up a blister - during the wet spell I couldn't maintain my daily routine - but Mary and Fleur are fine.

Day 20 Rubiaes to Tui 19km

Lots of nice photos today, so we'll start with a few of them.

Early morning Rubiaes

Swollen river near Rubiaes

On the road for 7.45 on a beautiful dry morning, with a mist in the valley as we left Rubiaes. The walk was largely off road and did not require too many hill climbs. We arrived at Valenca on the Portuguese side of the border. The route now goes through the old city, so we had a light lunch in the small central square.

Stream walk near Sao Bento

Near Fontoura Fuente

After Valenca, we walked a kilometre or so, crossed a river bridge, and we were in Spain, in Tui. Again a lovely old town. We are staying at Villa San Clemente, an older house a little way from the centre.

Waltraud, Kieran, Mary, Carlo and Fleur at Pacos

Wahooooooo!!

In case I didn't say it, the paths and countryside for the past few days have been beautiful - it was hard to appreciate it at times due to the rain. Also, the towns have all been a bit special. Sometimes you arrive in a town so tired that you don't walk too far from your accommodation once you are showered and settled. Then the following morning you see a lot more of the town as you leave it and you realise what you've missed.

Near the fort in Valenca

This blog is a cooperative effort. Mary set it up and structured it before we left Ireland and she is our tech support. Fleur takes all the photos and loads them from her camera to my iPad. Sometimes we use photos taken from our phones. I write the text and caption the photos (yes, I missed one yesterday).  The photo sizing and captioning has to be done on Mary's Nexus 7 as that function is unstable on the iPad. Then we all take a quick look at the finished post and publish it. It's a bit of fun!

Cathedral Tui

The crops in the fields are fairly constant at this stage: maize, vines, cabbage, tomatoes, oranges, lemons, kiwis, apples, and chestnuts. In the past day or so we have encountered walnuts. We hadn't seen a pomegranate tree for weeks but came across one again today.

Day 19 Ponte de Lima to Rubiaes 18km

Despite the dodgy forecasts, we had to venture out to start today's walk. As soon as we did we were trapped under a shop awning as a downpour threatened to lift the drain covers. After 20 minutes it subsided a little and we ventured on - it eventually stopped about two hours later. So, we are here in the Ninho Albergue in Rubiaes (a large village rather than town). We are relatively dry.

Quack quack, at least the ducks like the rain - near Revolta

When we had finished with the rain today, we undertook the 300m ascent of the Portela Grande. It is quite a hill, with a need to almost scramble in some parts. If Camino Frances has Orisson and Ocebreiro as memorable climbs, then Camino Portuguese has Portela Grande.

Trained vines Cabanas

The number of people on the trail has been increasing each day and today it took a big jump, with lots of people we hadn't seen before. I think a lot of them are not independent, but rather they are on organised trips run by commercial organisations. The waymarking, which has been satisfactory since Lisbon (with the odd exception) has really picked up in the last few days. Where before you might get a yellow arrow every 250m, now they are every 40m and sometimes with three clustered together at a turn. Maybe the improvement is to satisfy the commercial organisations?

Rugged trail up to Portela Grande

With all the new people, we have moved a long way from the intimate little group that beat its way up from Lisbon to Porto. It is possible we may encounter them over the next week as we get nearer to Santiago. Tonight will be our last night in Portugal. Tomorrow we walk to Tui and that is in Spain. Walking up through the middle of Portugal, and taking in its two biggest cities, has been a great way to see this country.

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Day 18 Lugar do Corgo to Ponte De Lima 14km

Today was as awful as the forecasters said it would be. We set out at 9am and it was bucketing rain, and it rained and rained and rained. We walked through mud, puddles, miniature lakes, and splashing cars. Our outer rain gear, which was admittedly limited, gave up the ghost after about an hour. Our walk, at 14km, was relatively short, but we were completely wet through when we got to Ponte De Lima. It is a day we won't forget. We could not even take a photo (any here are borrowed from yesterday). The woman in the cafe, where we took a break at half way, looked appalled at our arrival and quickly produced cardboard to put under our squelching backpacks. We were not a pretty sight!

Oranges ready for harvest

Last night's dinner was a bit of an event. I counted 18 at the long table including pilgrims and the host family. So, around the table there were French, Canadian, Dutch, German, Irish, American and Portuguese - a regular Tower of Babel! A lovely chicken and potato dish was gobbled up, and this was accompanied by red and white wine home brewed on the premises, a selection of ports, and something called fire water!! After the food, one of the German guests was persuaded to play a guitar and sing some 60s songs. Then the Portuguese contingent took over and made a wonderful noise - they were super.

Sleepy dog at Fernanda's 

The forecast for tomorrow is for more constant rain, but not with the volumes experienced today. Mary accessed a drier here at the very modern youth hostel, so we will be dry starting out. Subsequent days should be better.

Day 17 Barcelos to Lugar do Corgo 19km

The countryside, villages and hamlets we have passed through since the start of our walk have been attractive and engaging. They have more than compensated for the few days we were in the suburbs of the larger cities. Today was another day of pretty hamlets, and farms bursting with ripening corn and grapes.

Early morning Barcelos after religious event

We shortened our day today as planned, and arrived at Lugar do Corgo early and relatively refreshed. We were caught in one heavy shower but it has been sunny and warm (tomorrow will be appallingly wet, apparently). We are at Casa Fernanda, a well known private facility established by Fernanda and Jacinto to cater for the tired walkers they saw on this long stage. They run it on a 'donativo' basis but I think most guests donate generously to these very welcoming people. The atmosphere is very unique. We have managed to secure the only private bedroom, and all guests will sit down to a communal dinner tonight.

(Seems to be a problem with the internet so I'm writing this with a view to uploading it tomorrow).

Portuguese Mountain Longhorn cow near Barcelos

We had no idea how accommodation would work out before we set out from Lisbon. We have only had a couple of dormitory nights and they were fine and to a high standard. Each day we have phoned ahead (we never did this on the Camino Frances) and booked a triple en suite room. We have generally succeeded and it has come in at around €15 a head, sometimes including breakfast. Even though we brought silk travel sheets and quick dry towels, we have had sheets and towels supplied and everything has been spotless in all locations. We used Airbnb for our nights in Lisbon and Porto, and we hope to to this again in Santiago.

Mediaeval stone bridge at Ponte das Tabuas

Ponte das Tabuas infinity pool!!!

It is hard to believe that we will be leaving Portugal after three more shortish days on the road. The crossing point at Tui seemed so far when we were in Lisbon, but now we are getting close.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Day 16 Vila do Conde to Barcelos 29km

It was a really hard day on the road. It rained from when we started at 7.30am and the rain got more intense for the next few hours, not finishing until after 11am. We got absolutely soaked. Our problems were exacerbated by taking the wrong route - we had to take an unwaymarked route to get back to the main Camino route, and none of us found the Brierly directions for the 'grey' route to be clear. With the afternoon sun, we dried out and are now in our room in Residencial Arantes in Barcelos - it overlooks the main square where the locals are having a Sunday afternoon waltz!

Dancing in the square, Barcelos

A few things about last night. The room we had was a bit Fawlty Towers ish. The lights had a habit of going on and off for periods, mostly off. The cistern in the loo had an attack of constant noisy draining - plumber Mary managed a fix with loo brush so that we could all sleep for the night. Down in the town we called into a wonderful local bar/cafe for a nightcap, Cafe Saura. It was very non touristy and the food was interesting (we had already eaten), and the atmosphere great. This morning we called back in for breakfast before leaving town. Some of last night customers were still there working their way through white wine - they were really drunk but no trouble. Our breakfast was perfect.

Tiny chapel at Vila do Conde (seats about 16)

Aqueduct at Vila do Conde

I have mentioned a few times how much we have taken to Portugal and the Portuguese. As we have proceeded a couple of exceptions have emerged. When you are on a narrow margin at the edge of a main road you get a good look at the driver as he speeds past you - and so many of them are holding mobile phones to their ears. Ireland is poor in this regard also but I thought Portugal might be better. Another thing we notice is that the people here are serial 'litterers', just dropping rubbish/paper as they walk, and you can see the results. It is a bit like Ireland was 10/15 years ago.

Damp ponies this morning

Tomorrow's official stage is about 34km, so we are splitting it in two as we are carrying a spare day at this stage.

Day 15 Porto/Matosinhos to Vila do Conde 23km

Swing benches in a square in Porto

No blog yesterday - it was our much needed rest day in Porto and the blog took a rest also. We have been walking for two weeks solid at this stage, so it was essential to have a day off. Even staying in bed until 10am was a change (seem to be up by 6am every other day) and we strolled around Porto rather than walked. It was a very restful day.

Cathedral Porto

Main bridge over the Douro

There is a kind of vibrancy about Porto. Cafes, restaurants and shops appear to be everywhere and people seem to be busy. The area around the river is quite striking. It is a very Portuguese city, as distinct from being a generic international city - having said that, it seems to cater to a lot of foreign tourists. It slopes steeply down to the river and is generally a hilly place. Our apartment was really very well located with everything within walking distance. Pedro dos Frangos was our food source last evening - great value chicken restaurant that also does takeaway, on Rua Bonjardim.

Boardwalk and wooden bridge near Caso do Mar

Finally took a photo of one of the communal washing areas 

Vila do Conde is an attractive town with plenty going on. We are staying in Residencial Princess do Ave - nice enough place but a little bit from the centre.

Looking back south

Different!